If you are just starting out and don’t have any materials I would highly recommend running out and grabbing a fly tying kit. They are readily available in fly shops, online and in some outdoor supply stores such as Cabelas and LLBean. A fly tying kit will give you the majority of the tools needed and a good variety of starting materials (plus most of them also include an instruction book and DVD with patterns full of step-by-step tutorials) The only downside to a kit is that you will have a stationary vise, that may make tying some patterns difficult as you will have to remove the hook, turn it over and reinsert it into your vise. It’s not terrible, as its how many of us began; but an upgrade to a rotating vise will do wonders for your tying.
Your Vise is One of the most important tools you will need, so try to find a sturdy one that will hold your hooks securely.
Depending on your vise there will be different ways in which you will close the jaws around the hook. Some of them are lever action (especially if you’re picking up a kit); and others such as the Regal Vise that I tie on are Cam operated and always under pressure so that hooks remain securely held. Take a look at “Fly Tying 101: Securing the hook in your vise” for a step by step tutorial on how to work some of the vises.
Also try to experiment for what works best for you some vice have a table clamp some come with the base, for the first few years I was using a table clamp because it was easier because I can tie closer to my lap, and seeing as though I’m only 5 feet tall; using a tall stem on my vice made it harder for me to reach comfortably when I was tying.
Now I have a regular base and a short stem to put the actual rotating vice head on which works well, over time you will learn what works for you.
After you’ve been tying for a while and say to yourself.. “Ive found my new obsession!” you may want to upgrade from your kit and pick up a set of good set of scissors.
Dr. slick make very nice set of sharp scissors; but keep in mind before you throw out those old ones that you will also want a pair of scissors that are not so nice.
They will be used to cut materials that otherwise would dull them. Example: Chenille, wire, metal tinsel ect.
You can always use the far back area of your good scissors (many have an indent that is good for that) But I tend to just use an old pair. If your old pair looks like the new ones and it’s hard to tell them apart I would recommend putting some marker or drop of color nail polish.
Ah yes.. the whip finisher. During more than one session Ive been told it “Looks like something out of a medieval torture chamber” and that its completely aggravating to use.
Well..it does sort of look evil ..but I can assure you that once you get the hang of it, it actually becomes a lot of fun when finishing your flies! Not to mention it will become an extension of your arm to the point that it will become automatic and you’ll be finishing flies in no time.
The hair stacker will become an invaluable tool down the line, especially when tying flies such as the elk hair caddis.
Its used to level the tips of deer and elk hair before tying in.
Hackle pliers come in a few different sizes and types. The way the pliers work are reversed from normal, which means that when you squeeze them they open, so when you place your material inside and to let go they will hold on with constant pressure. I prefer the one on the right, for me they have better control.
These will be used to grab your feather and wrap it around the hook they are also useful for wrapping Polish quills.
Bobbins are used to hold your thread. Different bobbins can be used to hold different materials so you want to find one that you are comfortable using because many standard Bobbins come in different sizes and shapes.
On the left we see a standard bobbin, the middle is a Wasatch bobbin for silk, and on the right we see a Rite Bobbin. While the standard and Rite bobbin are both used for thread, I tend to use the Rite Bobbin for bigger thread such as a 3/0 or GSP because taught pulling on the bobbin when spinning deer hair wont cause it to pop loose from the bobbin like it does in the standard. I always keep one bobbin loaded with lead/leadfree wire.
Bobbin threaders will make your life a whole lot easier, there are a few different types that you can use. See the link here on how to use a bobbin threader.
These will come in handy when teasing out material or roughing up the dubbing on flies such as the hares ear or caddis jig.
These help you spin the thread when creating a dubbing loop.
Some tyers use it, others dont. Its all personal preference.
Its used to finish the heads on flies or to be dabbed on a thread base on a hook to help materials from slipping when being tied in.
There are different types of wax.
Here on the left we see a standard tube of wax that you’d find in a kit, in the middle is a homemade hard wax that I picked up from my friend Eunan at a show, and on the right we see the ever elusive Wonder Wax! Each can be used for dubbing but over time you will decide whats right for you. I prefer the middle hard wax for flies whose dubbing I dont want to get tacky.
Lighting: One more thing that is very important to have is a good light. It will help to relieve eyestrain and you will be able to see better. There are countless numbers of lights out there but what I found by going to the shows, is that you will get a lot of good recommendations and be able to see them right in front of you.
One more optional but for me, essential tool is a bead holding pair of pliers.
This is by no means a complete list but it will get you off on the right foot!